About Mentok Kangri Expedition:

On Eastern Ladakh, Mentok Kangri 2 is one of the breathtaking expeditions. This expedition is the technical one. Mentok Kangri 2 is shining on Rupshu valley, near the banks of Tsomoriri. Once upon a time, this place was reigned by famous Changpa nomads. Being a challenging climbing of 6250 meters, the trek starts at Tsokhar Lake, near the banks of Tsomoriri. The Mentok Kangri expedition crosses four high passes and finally reaches to the Mentok Kangri ascent.

Itineraries

There are two routes to reach

One is from Tso-kar via Rachung Karu and Ghyama

Day 1 – Delhi to Leh (Acclimatize for one day)

Day 3 – Drive Leh to Rumtse (4100m)

Day 4 – Drive Rumtse to Tsokar (4500m)

Day 5 – Trek Tsokhar – Nuruchan (4,590m)

Day 6 – Trek Nuruchan – Rajungkaru (4,800m)

Day 7 – Trek Rajung Karu – Gyama Burma (4,790m)

Day 8 -Trek Gyama Burma – Karzok Phu (4,500m)

Day 9 – Trek Karzok Phu – Base Camp (5,250m)

Day 10 – Acclimatize at Base Camp

Day 11 – Trek to High Camp

Day 12 – Summit Day!

Day 13 – an Extra day for bad weather etc.

Day 14 – Trek Base Camp to Karzok

Day 15 – Drive Karzok to Leh

Other is from Korzok.

Day 1 – Arrive at Korzok from Leh

Day 2- Trek to Korzok phu

Day3 – Trek to Mentok Kangri to base camp

Day 4 – Acclimatization day

Day 5 – Summit and back

Day6 – Trek back to Korzok

Note – The route from Tsokar is longer than the other and well-acclimatized itinerary.

Best time to go-

June to September

The challenges that Will be faced are:

• Altitude – The trek starts from the altitude of 4500m and goes up to 6250m. Trekkers with the previous experience of 5000 m altitude are preferred to go.
• The terrain is mostly dry and arid as it is in Ladakh. You have to be prepared accordingly.
• The way from the base camp to the summit is full of boulders and loose rocks.
• After crossing the glacier fixed rope is a must.
• Mentok Kangri has three summits 1,2 and 3.  From 2 one can either summit 1 and 3 depending upon the weather. Summit 1 is much more technical.

Clothing required :

• 3 pair of trekking pants
• 3 pair of full sleeves shirts
• 1 base layer
• 1 windproof
• 1 thermal
• 1 fleece
• Pair of gloves
• Headlamp
• 3 pair of socks
• Personal hygiene kit and Medicare
• Gaiters
• Crampons
• Harness
• Jumar
• Rope
• Carabineer
• Desender
• Ice-axe
• Helmet
• High ankle trekking boots/snow climbing shoes (koflac or Scarpa).

Memorable Story

Being able to reach the summit with all the team members after 20 hrs of the ordeal was itself the memorable incident of this expedition.

Preparation for the trek:

• Prior high altitude trekking experience above 5000m is a must.
• Jogging for 5km daily within half an hour
• Stairs climbing with 3 kg load for 50 times
• Cycling for 15 mins
• Mountain climbing exercise along with other stamina and core building exercises 3 months before the trek.

Geographical importance:

• Stunning view of Tsomoriri lake throughout the trek.
• Stunning views of Tashang tso lake
• Views of Chamsher Kangri and Luser Kangri both 6000m peaks
• 360 view of the surrounding mountain peaks and the highway from the summit.
• View of Chumur ranges.

Risks involved:

• High chances of getting AMS , HAPE, and HACE due to high altitude.
• Very slippery and risky due to loose rocks and boulders.
• The summit ridge is full of hard ice. So without proper equipment, it is very risky.
• If coming from Tsokar side then one has to cross 2 high altitude passes where bad weather can increase the risk element.
• Less availability of water for 2 days if coming from Tsokar side.

Medical kit :

• Fever – 6 tablets
• Vomiting – 4 tablets
• Minor body ache & pain and inflammation-4/6 tablets
• A headache 10 tablets
• Stomach Upset – 10 tablets
• Digestion – 10 tablets
• Cotton – 1 small roll
• Crepe bandage – 3 to 5 meters
• Band-aid – 10 strips
• Gauze cloth – 1 small role
• Leukoplast – 1 small roll
• ORS – 5 packets
• Antiseptic cream for an open wound
• Spray/ cream – Mussel strain
• Diamox – 10 tablets (only in high altitude treks
• Dexamethasone